Bows & Parts
Recurves, longbows and compounds, and every part on them, explained in plain words.
// Overview
Recurve or compound: what to shoot, and how it all fits together
Your first bow is the biggest decision you’ll make in archery, and the easiest to get wrong. I know because my first bow was 45 lb: the first time, I got maybe three shots in before I was done. This page is what I wish I’d read first.
Start by deciding between a recurve or a compound. For most beginners it’s a recurve, and specifically a takedown recurve so you can swap to heavier limbs later instead of buying a new bow.
Then learn the parts. Knowing the riser, limbs and shelf makes every review and shop conversation easier, and small settings like brace height make a bigger difference than you’d think.
Free printable
First-bow buying checklist
Every question to ask before you buy: draw length, weight, bow length, takedown or not, and what to skip. It’s a page of the free range log.
// All posts
Everything in Bows & Parts
Showing all 14 posts, newest firstShowing 10 posts for recurve shooters, newest firstShowing 2 posts for longbow shooters, newest firstShowing 3 posts for compound shooters, newest first
- The 4 Best Compound Bows for Beginners, From Youth to Adult KitsA beginner compound left at its maximum weight is the fastest way to wreck your form. These 4 adjustable ready-to-hunt bows start as light as 5 lb and grow to 70 lb, plus the draw length and shop setup checks to do before your first shot.
- Bow Tiller: How to Check It and When to Adjust ItTiller is the small difference between your two limbs, and the right number depends on how you hook the string. Learn how to check it in 2 measurements, what split finger, three under and string walkers run, and how to adjust it one bolt at a time.
- How to Choose Compound Bow Let-Off: 65%, 80% or 90%?At 80% let-off, a 60 lb compound asks you to hold just 12 lb at full draw, and 90% feels even easier. Learn how let-off works, why target archers choose less, how a module swap can change your draw length, and why 75–80% is the place to learn.
- How to Choose a Longbow, and When to Buy OneA longbow’s string touches the bow only at its tips, and that one design choice makes it slower and harder-kicking than a recurve. Learn the 5 differences that matter, how to pick the shape, weight and length, and why it makes a better second bow than a first.
- How a Compound Bow Works, and How to Pick OneA compound’s cams cut the weight held at full draw by 65–80%, which is why it aims so steadily. How the cams work, which cam system and 5 specs to pick for a first compound, and why learning form on a recurve first pays off.
- Recurve Limbs: 3 Lengths, Sticker Numbers and Why to Start LighterYour first pair of recurve limbs is the pair you’ll replace, and that is the whole point of a takedown. Read the limb sticker, pick short, medium or long from your draw length, swap limbs in 6 steps, and learn the signs a limb needs retiring.
- ILF Limbs and Risers: How to Match, Fit and Tune ThemMost first ILF limb sets are bought for the wrong riser and pull 4 lb more than the sticker says. Learn how to pick limb length and weight, what the limb bolts can and can’t change, and the 4 checks to run when you mix brands.
- Takedown vs One-Piece Recurve: Which to Buy FirstA takedown recurve comes apart into 3 pieces, and the real win isn’t travel: you swap to heavier limbs instead of buying a whole new bow. Learn how it compares with a one-piece, the 4 checks before you buy and how to put one together in 5 steps.
- How to Choose a Recurve Riser That Fits YouThe riser is the part of a takedown recurve you keep for years, so pick it once and pick it well. Run 6 checks at the shop, choose a 23, 25 or 27-inch riser for your draw and a grip that suits your wrist, and skip the premium price.
- Samick Sage: Why the 62″ Takedown Is Still the Classic First BowMost first-recurve advice ends with “get a Samick Sage.” See what the 62″ takedown really offers, why 25–30 lb limbs beat heavier ones, who a 28″ rated draw fits, and the 3 checks to make before you buy one.
- LWANO Recurve Bow Set: What’s in the 52″ Kit With 9 ArrowsA bow, 9 arrows, a quiver and targets in one box, sold at 20, 30 or 40 lb. This LWANO recurve set review covers who a 52″ bow really fits, which draw weight to pick for a kid or an adult, and what to check before buying.
- How to Choose Your First Recurve Bow: 8 Checks Before You BuyMost first recurves are bought too heavy, and it wrecks form for months. Learn how to pick draw weight, bow length and takedown or one-piece, with a size chart by draw length and 8 checks to run before you buy.
- My Sanlida Royal X8 After 2 Years: Why I’d Make It Your Second BowA 45 lb first bow ended day one after 3 shots. See how the Sanlida Royal X8 one-piece shoots at 25 and 50 yards, what held up over 2 years, why the bundled arrows failed, and the draw weight to order instead.
- The 5 Best Recurve Bows for Beginners, and Why I’d Start LighterBuy a first recurve too heavy and you fight it for months. These 5 picks, from the Samick Sage to a Hoyt ILF riser, come with checked specs, the length and draw weight that fit you, and what to look for before buying.
// FAQ
Questions I get a lot
Short answers to what beginners ask me about bows & parts.
Recurve or compound for a first bow?
A takedown recurve. It’s cheaper, simpler and teaches form. A compound is easier to hold and aim, but start on the recurve.
What draw weight should a beginner use?
Most adults start between 20 and 30 lb on a recurve. You should be able to hold full draw for eight seconds without shaking.
What is a takedown bow?
A bow whose limbs come off the riser. You can travel with it and swap to heavier limbs later instead of buying a new bow.
Is a takedown recurve really better for beginners?
Yes. You can swap to heavier limbs as you get stronger instead of buying a whole new bow.
Can I buy a used bow?
Yes, but check the limbs for cracks or twist and ask for the original draw weight. Avoid anything stored strung for years.
What does ILF mean?
International Limb Fitting. It lets limbs from one brand fit another brand’s riser, so upgrades are easier.
How do I know my draw length?
Measure your arm span in inches and divide by 2.5. A pro shop can check it in a minute.
Left- or right-handed bow?
Go by your dominant eye, not your writing hand. Do the eye test before you buy.
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// Free printable
Get the range log I actually use.
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